Audi G28: 10 Things I'd Like To Have Known Earlier
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How to Replace an Audi G28 Engine Speed Sensor
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic demonstrates how to replace audi key fob the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is situated at the edge of transmission over the flywheel gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU through an uncolored wire T55/49, then to the tachometer on the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated at the edges of the transmission, directly above the flywheel ring. The sensor transmits a signal via the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU utilizes this information to control fuel and boost. It also sends an indicator to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster.
The sensor serves as a reference to correlate with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu needs to know when the crankshaft has reached TDC and also where the camshaft lies so that it can activate the spark and injectors.
If this sensor fails when it fails, the ECU will display a P00160 error message. This means that the Crank Shaft is not in line with the Intake Camshaft. It could also indicate a chain stretch or a jumped chain link in the upper chain of timing. The code won't appear without the additional information provided by other sensors (G4 or G40).
It is a little tricky to test as there are several pins on the connector and each one has different functions. The best way to do it is to measure the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. It should read around 1000 ohms if the sensor is at full operation. If you're experiencing issues with this sensor, look for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday accelerating full speed from highway paytoll i had massive power loss as if the engine was running out of gas or the injectors are not firing anymore. I pulled out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked in gasoline, and the fourth was dry. When I start the engine with no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on the top of each of the injector holes and the 3 drenched with gazoline jump out but the 4th stay closed. I tested the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I found zero ohm. Therefore, i think the issue is somewhere else.
I also tried to reset the PID but without success. The car is able to start when the G28 is not plugged in and is running fine when it is connected however it has the intermittent misfire issue at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62) even when it is unplugged, shows temperatures of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar while the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do. I feel like i've pretty much ruled everything else out. But i am afraid I might have missed something. If anyone has any suggestions, please share them! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump of the g28 receives signals from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter functions similarly to the G4 sender and works on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily find the spare in a salvage shop or parts store. Testing them is easy - put your DMM in resistance mode and measure between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from left on the black connector's end). They should be infinite Ohms.

In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic demonstrates how to replace audi key fob the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is situated at the edge of transmission over the flywheel gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU through an uncolored wire T55/49, then to the tachometer on the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated at the edges of the transmission, directly above the flywheel ring. The sensor transmits a signal via the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU utilizes this information to control fuel and boost. It also sends an indicator to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster.
The sensor serves as a reference to correlate with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu needs to know when the crankshaft has reached TDC and also where the camshaft lies so that it can activate the spark and injectors.
If this sensor fails when it fails, the ECU will display a P00160 error message. This means that the Crank Shaft is not in line with the Intake Camshaft. It could also indicate a chain stretch or a jumped chain link in the upper chain of timing. The code won't appear without the additional information provided by other sensors (G4 or G40).
It is a little tricky to test as there are several pins on the connector and each one has different functions. The best way to do it is to measure the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. It should read around 1000 ohms if the sensor is at full operation. If you're experiencing issues with this sensor, look for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday accelerating full speed from highway paytoll i had massive power loss as if the engine was running out of gas or the injectors are not firing anymore. I pulled out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked in gasoline, and the fourth was dry. When I start the engine with no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on the top of each of the injector holes and the 3 drenched with gazoline jump out but the 4th stay closed. I tested the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I found zero ohm. Therefore, i think the issue is somewhere else.
I also tried to reset the PID but without success. The car is able to start when the G28 is not plugged in and is running fine when it is connected however it has the intermittent misfire issue at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62) even when it is unplugged, shows temperatures of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar while the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do. I feel like i've pretty much ruled everything else out. But i am afraid I might have missed something. If anyone has any suggestions, please share them! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump of the g28 receives signals from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter functions similarly to the G4 sender and works on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily find the spare in a salvage shop or parts store. Testing them is easy - put your DMM in resistance mode and measure between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from left on the black connector's end). They should be infinite Ohms.

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