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How to Replace an audi key fob replacement G28 Engine Speed Sensor
Charles the Humble Technician teaches you how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. The sensor is situated near the edges of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal the ECU via an uncolored wire (T55/49) which is then sent to the tachometer within the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated on the outside of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. The sensor transmits an electrical signal through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU then utilizes this information to regulate fuel, Audi Keyfob timig and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster.
The sensor is used as a reference point to connect with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu needs to know when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is located so that it can start spark and injectors accordingly.
If this sensor fails when it fails, the ECU will display a P00160 error code. This means that the Crank Shaft is not in alignment with the Intake Camshaft. It could also indicate an issue with the chain or a jumpy chain link in the upper timing chain. However, the error code won't appear on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
Testing is a bit tricky since there are two connector pins and they perform different functions but the most effective method to test it is to measure the resistance between the sensor and the ECU. When the sensor is operational, it should be reading around 1000 ohms. If you're having issues with this component, look for evidence of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when i was accelerating to the fullest speed from highway paytoll, I experienced a big cut in power as if the engine was running out of gas or the injectors aren't firing at all. Today, i pulled out the spark plugs, three were soaked with gazoline and the fourth was dry. When I start the engine with no sparks i put tissue on top of each injector hole and the 3 drenched with gazoline jump out but the 4th one stays closed. I tested the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I found zero ohm. I'm assuming the issue is in another place.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car is able to start if the G28 is disconnected and is running fine when it is plugged in however it is experiencing intermittent misfires at higher RPM. The temperature sensor for coolant (G62) shows the wrong temp value -49c even when i unplug it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar while the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do. I believe that I've eliminated everything else. But i'm worried that I might have missed something. Please let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 can be activated by a signal by the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is the same as the G4 and both function in the 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 cars so you can easily find one at a wrecking yard or at a parts store. It is simple to test them - simply put your DMM into resistance mode and determine the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump on the connector's edge facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.

Charles the Humble Technician teaches you how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. The sensor is situated near the edges of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal the ECU via an uncolored wire (T55/49) which is then sent to the tachometer within the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated on the outside of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. The sensor transmits an electrical signal through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU then utilizes this information to regulate fuel, Audi Keyfob timig and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster.
The sensor is used as a reference point to connect with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu needs to know when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is located so that it can start spark and injectors accordingly.
If this sensor fails when it fails, the ECU will display a P00160 error code. This means that the Crank Shaft is not in alignment with the Intake Camshaft. It could also indicate an issue with the chain or a jumpy chain link in the upper timing chain. However, the error code won't appear on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
Testing is a bit tricky since there are two connector pins and they perform different functions but the most effective method to test it is to measure the resistance between the sensor and the ECU. When the sensor is operational, it should be reading around 1000 ohms. If you're having issues with this component, look for evidence of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. InjectorsYesterday, when i was accelerating to the fullest speed from highway paytoll, I experienced a big cut in power as if the engine was running out of gas or the injectors aren't firing at all. Today, i pulled out the spark plugs, three were soaked with gazoline and the fourth was dry. When I start the engine with no sparks i put tissue on top of each injector hole and the 3 drenched with gazoline jump out but the 4th one stays closed. I tested the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I found zero ohm. I'm assuming the issue is in another place.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car is able to start if the G28 is disconnected and is running fine when it is plugged in however it is experiencing intermittent misfires at higher RPM. The temperature sensor for coolant (G62) shows the wrong temp value -49c even when i unplug it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar while the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do. I believe that I've eliminated everything else. But i'm worried that I might have missed something. Please let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 can be activated by a signal by the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is the same as the G4 and both function in the 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 cars so you can easily find one at a wrecking yard or at a parts store. It is simple to test them - simply put your DMM into resistance mode and determine the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump on the connector's edge facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.

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